NYC 2010 with the girls
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Tuesday, May 04, 2010
Sunday, August 05, 2007
Back Home
i was really looking forward to being back toward the end of my trip. it was great arriving back in Boston to familiar territory and seeing friends. then i had a whirlwind few days even after my return: Boston, Manhattan and NJ before i actually flew back home. stayed with L in Manhattan for the weekend and as always, it was great to see her. we used to see each other and hang out all the time back in undergrad (and HS and rewind all the way back to elementary school) but we only got to see each other about twice a year for the past several years. for a couple years, she was back in CA while i was away. now that i'm finally back in CA, she's in NY!
first week back home, it was good. it was good seeing my parents and sibs. hung out w/ A and N, also with my cuz M as well. i was so happy to see them all and they were happy to have me back home. however, transitioning back home is difficult. i'm so used to having my own place and doing my own thing and now i feel like i'm back in high school. =(
all that time in Boston when i was away i was really looking forward to finally being back home. now that i'm back, i miss my life there. grass is greener on the other side!!! and why is it that everything is better in retrospect? selective memory, i guess.
i think it'll be easier once i have my own space again and have things settled. you'd think having time off would be great but after a while, it's also very boring.
first week back home, it was good. it was good seeing my parents and sibs. hung out w/ A and N, also with my cuz M as well. i was so happy to see them all and they were happy to have me back home. however, transitioning back home is difficult. i'm so used to having my own place and doing my own thing and now i feel like i'm back in high school. =(
all that time in Boston when i was away i was really looking forward to finally being back home. now that i'm back, i miss my life there. grass is greener on the other side!!! and why is it that everything is better in retrospect? selective memory, i guess.
i think it'll be easier once i have my own space again and have things settled. you'd think having time off would be great but after a while, it's also very boring.
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a few things i found interesting in Europe:
there is no Diet Coke or Pepsi. it's called Coca Light or Pepsi Light.
ground floor is not the 1st floor. the 1st floor is what we typically call the 2nd floor.
the basement is floor -1. three floors down? -3.
in most places in Europe, you have to pay or tip to use the bathroom. the ones where you don't are so filthy they make you understand why you'd actually want to pay to use the facilities.
it's difficult to get very cold drinks. refrigerated drinks are not as cold as we are used to in the States. ice with your drink? you can almost forget about it.
tip on getting really cold, icy drink in Europe: go to McDonald's.
Europeans are more mindful of conserving energy, water, and paper.
Europeans don't drink straight from the bottle (water, juice, etc.) - the contents are always consumed after being poured into a glass. i think it's considered uncivilized to drink straight from the bottle.
you almost never see Europeans eating/drinking on the go.
ground floor is not the 1st floor. the 1st floor is what we typically call the 2nd floor.
the basement is floor -1. three floors down? -3.
in most places in Europe, you have to pay or tip to use the bathroom. the ones where you don't are so filthy they make you understand why you'd actually want to pay to use the facilities.
it's difficult to get very cold drinks. refrigerated drinks are not as cold as we are used to in the States. ice with your drink? you can almost forget about it.
tip on getting really cold, icy drink in Europe: go to McDonald's.
Europeans are more mindful of conserving energy, water, and paper.
Europeans don't drink straight from the bottle (water, juice, etc.) - the contents are always consumed after being poured into a glass. i think it's considered uncivilized to drink straight from the bottle.
you almost never see Europeans eating/drinking on the go.
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Monday, July 16, 2007
Chenonceau and more
Sunday, I took the TGV to Tours to view the Chenonceau chateau in the Loire Valley region. I've wanted to visit Chenonceau ever since I saw the poster of it in my French class in high school. Well, it took about ten years but I finally went! (A - do you remember the poster?) The trip took a total of about 1.5 hrs (1 hr TGV, then another half hour to the chateau). All the chateau are spread pretty far apart and the best way to visit the region is really by a bus tour or car. If I revisit in the future, I'd go on the tour. The chateau was a lot smaller than I thought it would be but it was interesting. There's a lot of history linked to Catherine de Medici, her husband Henry IV and her family there. The audioguide was cool because the machine is an iPod: not only do you get the audio commentary but you see the video too. The Loire region reminds me a lot of Napa/Sonoma, except that in addition, there are historic castles. I don't know if the trip was worth the cost (the TGV was very expensive) but at least I got to visit a place I've been wanting to visit for a long time.
Today, I revisited the Marais area and finally found Mariage Freres. They are famous for their teas and have been in business since 1854. They have a selection of over 600 teas (from China, India, the Himalays, etc.). Everything was beautifully displayed but quite pricey!
On the subject of food, I also found Le Procope. It is one of the world's oldest continually operating restaurants (been in business since 1686) and is one of the first places to have introduced coffee to the Western world.
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Sunday, July 15, 2007
back in Paris
arrived back to Paris yesterday morning. I'm not sure if it's because I returned to where I started my trip or whether this brings my trip to a close, but coming back to Paris felt like a small homecoming. I really love it here. If I were to chose a favorite city of all the places I've visited, I would probably have to choose Paris. All the other cities were also beautiful and interesting but there's something intangible here that's hard to describe. There is just so much to do in this city and there's a little something for everybody. Also, being in a place where you can understand the basics makes a huge difference in experiencing it more authentically.
I arrived on Bastille Day (July 14th), which commemorates the French Revolution. I wasn't even home for Independence Day but I'm here in France for theirs. Go figure. Apparently, the celebrations start on the 13th and continue on the 14th, where there's a parade in the morning down Champs Elysees and fireworks in the evening. Everywhere in the city, you saw French flags waving proudly. Also, throughout the day, you heard planes overhead. Back home in SF, these were called the Blue Angels, I'm not sure what they're officially called. On Sat. I went on a walking tour of the city, then visited the Musee d'Orsay and the St. Germain des Pres area in the early evening before viewing the fireworks.
I really enjoyed strolling down Blvd St Germain. Stopped at Les Deux Magots, a historic cafe where many famous philosophers (Sartre, Beauvoir) as well as literary greats met, mingled and wrote some of their famous works. The cafe is named such after the two wooden chinese figures in the cafe. I'm assuming its illustrious history is the reason why it was packed and my run of the mill coffee cost 4 euros. Nevertheless, I enjoyed sitting there and sipping my coffee. The best part was that the woman sitting next to me also happened to be American and we started chatting. She suggested that I visit Gerard Mulot (patisserie) as well as the Poilane boulangerie. I did find Gerard Mulot and their pastries were gorgeous! They were truly pieces of art. (Sorry to say this but Finale in Harvard Sq. doesn't come close). See picture, need I say more? I hadn't found Poilane yet but I hope to visit tomorrow. I had read somewhere that the daughter is now running the family business after her parents tragic passing. She apparently is/was a Harvard undergrad and runs the business overseas.
The fireworks were scheduled for 10:30pm, where the best viewing would be in front of the Eiffel Tower/Champs de Mars area. I thought that I would avoid the huge crowds by going up to Montmartre and seeing the fireworks from the hill. But there were also a TON of people there and I could barely see the fireworks. Although it was cool to be out in the Montmartre area, it was very difficult to move anywhere. Would've been best to stake out a prime viewing location hours earlier. Doable in theory but that strategy is best when you have friends to keep your spot. Reminds me why I usually don't bother going to see the fireworks on July 4th...
I arrived on Bastille Day (July 14th), which commemorates the French Revolution. I wasn't even home for Independence Day but I'm here in France for theirs. Go figure. Apparently, the celebrations start on the 13th and continue on the 14th, where there's a parade in the morning down Champs Elysees and fireworks in the evening. Everywhere in the city, you saw French flags waving proudly. Also, throughout the day, you heard planes overhead. Back home in SF, these were called the Blue Angels, I'm not sure what they're officially called. On Sat. I went on a walking tour of the city, then visited the Musee d'Orsay and the St. Germain des Pres area in the early evening before viewing the fireworks.
I really enjoyed strolling down Blvd St Germain. Stopped at Les Deux Magots, a historic cafe where many famous philosophers (Sartre, Beauvoir) as well as literary greats met, mingled and wrote some of their famous works. The cafe is named such after the two wooden chinese figures in the cafe. I'm assuming its illustrious history is the reason why it was packed and my run of the mill coffee cost 4 euros. Nevertheless, I enjoyed sitting there and sipping my coffee. The best part was that the woman sitting next to me also happened to be American and we started chatting. She suggested that I visit Gerard Mulot (patisserie) as well as the Poilane boulangerie. I did find Gerard Mulot and their pastries were gorgeous! They were truly pieces of art. (Sorry to say this but Finale in Harvard Sq. doesn't come close). See picture, need I say more? I hadn't found Poilane yet but I hope to visit tomorrow. I had read somewhere that the daughter is now running the family business after her parents tragic passing. She apparently is/was a Harvard undergrad and runs the business overseas.
The fireworks were scheduled for 10:30pm, where the best viewing would be in front of the Eiffel Tower/Champs de Mars area. I thought that I would avoid the huge crowds by going up to Montmartre and seeing the fireworks from the hill. But there were also a TON of people there and I could barely see the fireworks. Although it was cool to be out in the Montmartre area, it was very difficult to move anywhere. Would've been best to stake out a prime viewing location hours earlier. Doable in theory but that strategy is best when you have friends to keep your spot. Reminds me why I usually don't bother going to see the fireworks on July 4th...
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Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Prague
The weather has been very temperamental here in Prague. The sun makes an appearance intermittently - and so does the rain. Mostly, the sky is overcast though. I did a walking tour today of Old Town Square, the Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle, etc. It was alright but paled in comparison to the memorable Berlin tour. I wandered around different neighborhoods but without any specific destinations in mind really. I really should've gotten a travel guide for Prague so I have a better idea of what to see/do and to plan it better.
I am looking forward to being back in Paris and visiting sights/places I hadn't visited earlier during my trip. I'm also looking forward to being able to somewhat understand/speak the language too. It's not as much fun when you are in many respects mute and deaf and illiterate. =(
Traveling has been fun, I'm not complaining. But I'm starting to feel antsy and feel the need to get back to my "normal" life. They say that travel is life intensified - but I feel that it is also life postponed as well.
7-13-07
Visited a bunch of museums today. Went to Stone Bell House, Golden Ring House and Kinsky Palace which display Czech art. The Stone Bell House and Golden Ring House are named as such because back in the day, houses weren´t numbered as they are nowadays. So residences were distinguished by something on the facade.
I also visited National Museum and the Dvorak museum today. The National Museum was beautiful inside but they mainly housed paleontologic artifacts. I realized that I´m not that interested in dead things. Maybe if the exhibit were better, I´d appreciate it more.
The Dvorak museum was a little bit out of the way and not that great. They had a few momentos from his life displayed throughout a small building. However, I had visited the Mucha Museum yesterday and the art was beautiful. But I´m all museumed out for the moment. Similarly, I don´t want to climb another tower to look at another view or visit another church anymore.
The Dvorak museum was a little bit out of the way and not that great. They had a few momentos from his life displayed throughout a small building. However, I had visited the Mucha Museum yesterday and the art was beautiful. But I´m all museumed out for the moment. Similarly, I don´t want to climb another tower to look at another view or visit another church anymore.
Today I tried a smatzeeny (spelling is probably wrong), which E (who had lived in Prague) recommended. It is fried cheese with mayo in a roll. Sort of like fried mozarella sticks with mayo in a sandwich. It tasted good but afterwards, I felt exactly like how you´d imagine you would feel after having a chunk of fried cheese in your stomache. Yes, the well-balanced diet of a traveling tourist. But it was for the sake of experiencing the local cuisine. And I agree with her that this is something that sounds gross but would go well with beer or post-drinking.
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Monday, July 09, 2007
Belgium and Berlin
I had a great time in Belgium. Hands down, the best part was simply seeing A and T again. It had been about 2.5 yrs since I last saw them. After spending quite a few days in Florence and Rome on my own, it was wonderful to see friends you haven't seen in a long time. First stop was Brugges (Venice of the North) and it was a very charming. Of course we made a stop at a chocolate shop and sampled some of the goods (indeed excellent). Next day, we visited Leuven. Although not known as one of the usual tourist stops but it was a very cozy, charming city. The architecture of the buildings was very distinctive (wish I had pics to post now). We also stopped by a botanical garden where there were many fruit-laden trees of pears and apples (I was very tempted to go fruit-picking). I was very impressed with Leuven and it's a very livable city. I'm glad my friends live there so I have an excuse to revisit in the future.
Berlin
Berlin
We drove to Berlin on Saturday morning (7 hrs drive!). Part of my Europe experience was being on the autobahn in a car going about 105 mph. Thankfully for most of the drive, I dozed off. After we arrived, we met up with D and J and had a great dinner. On the agenda for the next day was a walking tour of Berlin which was very good. The guide was very enthusiastic and filled us in on the history of the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the Reichstag, etc. There is a lot of history here in the city - you're constantly confronted with it, especially when walking around in East Berlin. East Berlin seems more hip, trendy and interesting compared to the areas of West Berlin I visited. We also explored a couple museums on Museum Island and then climbed the dome of the Reichstag. It's too bad I didn't have enough time to visit Charlottenburg of the Berlin Zoo (home of the famous baby polar bear named Knut).
I also got a chance to try some German cuisine as well - tried some currywurst and weinerschnitzel and sauerkraut. Can't say that I'm a fan though. The best food I had here was probably a Turkish dinner and a samosa appetizer. And sadly, the coffee was disappointing. You know, after Italy the standards are high. Yes, I'll admit to being a coffee snob.
Luckily, the Berlin hostel I stayed at was excellent. St. Christopher's Inn was recently renovated and everything was clean, modern and comfy. They were very conveniently located as well. I would definitely recommend it. Berlin was good. I had a good time visiting the city and it was a great chance to catch up with friends as well as getting to them better.
This afternoon I hopped on my Prague bound train from the Berlin main train station. Once the train passed into the Czech Republic, the view was very pretty. The train route more or less went along the length of a river - it was peaceful pastoral scenery for quite a few horus. Upon arrival, the Holesevic train station seemed a bit sketchy though. I'm very glad that at least the hostel is very modern and clean (they're also a hotel as well as a hostel). It's called Czech Inn. Get it? ;-)
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Wednesday, July 04, 2007
Rome
Rome is very busy and crowded, very different from Florence. Once I arrived at the Termini train station, it was swarming with people.
I had originally planned on staying in Florence for three nights, but I decided to leave for Rome after the second night (so i'd have more time to explore Rome, three days instead of two). Last minute, I booked a night at the Colors Hostel, which is close to Vatican City. It's not as conveniently located as someplace near Termini but it was a decent hostel and quite clean. It's also located in a very nice, residential area. If I lived in Rome, I'd want to live in this neighborhood. There was a great cafe nearby, on the Via Cola di Rienza. The cafe was like a gourmet shop-deli-cafe-bar. Their coffee was excellent.
On the first day, I visited the ruins (Colosseum, Pallatine Hill, Forum area). The colosseum was very impressive - amazing engineering if it lasted 2000 years! the Pallatine Hill area was nice but I had a hard time appreciating all the ruins because they were all small remnants of the huge buildings that used to be there. I couldn't imagine what the rest (the missing bits) looked like, neither did I know how it should've looked like. I also visited the Pantheon. The area surrounding it was nice - good gelato at Cremeria Monteforte, also Tazzo d'Oro nearby (well known for their coffee). It was filled with tourists though. But I must say, their coffee granita con panna is as good as advertised, especially on a hot day. I also stumbed across the Cafe Sant Eustacchio, which had mostly Italian customers. They advertised a blurb written about them in the NY Times as well. I later found out that their espressos and coffees are considered one of the best in Rome by the Italians. Cool that I found this place - I wouldn't have learned about them in a guide book. Their coffee was indeed very good. In Italy, I've tried a large assortment of coffee drinks: cafe (espresso), cafe freddo (iced, sweetened coffee), capuccino freddo (iced capuccino), cafe americano (espresso w hot water, but much better than the americanos from back home), and coffee granita. They also have cafe shakerato (like a cafe frappe) and a espresso con panna which look really good but i haven't had a chance to try yet. As long as you order them and drink them at the counter (not seated), the prices are still cheaper than prices back home (compared to Starbucks or something). So they're a deal!
Yesterday I visited the Vatican. The lines to get in were very long (1.5 hrs to get in, past security). The Vatican was very impressive and has a great collection of art. Reminds you that back in the day, the church was very rich and powerful. The Sistine Chapel was impressive, as was St. Peter's basilica. I had to rush to the Borghese Gallery for my 5pm reservation. They limit visitors to about 350 per two hours and you have to make reservations in advance. The art was beautiful - Bernini sculptures were stunning. The pieces of art collected there are some of the greatest and the gallery rooms were designed to display and house these pieces to advantage. The building and galleries were stunning in and of themselves. I bought the audioguide which was so worth it because they did a beautiful job explaining the artists', how the piece was acquired in the collection, the significance and meaning of the piece, etc. Most audioguides are worthless but it was very well done at the Borghese Gallery. It is my favorite of all the museums I've visited, even the Louvre. Since it's limited to so few people, you can really walk around and enjoy the art upclose, withoutthe annoyance of large noisy crowds. I was very sad that the museum store was closed after my tour. I really liked the art there and wanted to purchase some books or postcards of the gallery. This is rare as I'm not usually so into getting the touristy museum stuff. I actually returned today and got two books about the art and the gallery.
This morning I had to check out of the Beehive (hostel last night) and into another hostel. The Beehive is run by an American couple and it's a really nice place to stay. They mostly have apartments and only one or two dorm rooms so you have to book months in advance. That is why I only manged to book one night there. It's very clean and cater mostly to couples and families (they mostly have apartments). They have free internet and their own cafe downstairs, as well as some outdoor seating and comfy couches for lounging. It's also super close to the Termini train station. Unfortunately, the place I'm at tonight isn't nearly as nice. It's also close to the Termini station but on the other side (Via Giolitti) and the area is a little sketchy. Oh well, just one night and tomorrow morning, I've got to hop on my 6:40am shuttle to the Ciampino airport to Brussels. Can't wait to see my friends A and T tomorrow!
I had originally planned on staying in Florence for three nights, but I decided to leave for Rome after the second night (so i'd have more time to explore Rome, three days instead of two). Last minute, I booked a night at the Colors Hostel, which is close to Vatican City. It's not as conveniently located as someplace near Termini but it was a decent hostel and quite clean. It's also located in a very nice, residential area. If I lived in Rome, I'd want to live in this neighborhood. There was a great cafe nearby, on the Via Cola di Rienza. The cafe was like a gourmet shop-deli-cafe-bar. Their coffee was excellent.
On the first day, I visited the ruins (Colosseum, Pallatine Hill, Forum area). The colosseum was very impressive - amazing engineering if it lasted 2000 years! the Pallatine Hill area was nice but I had a hard time appreciating all the ruins because they were all small remnants of the huge buildings that used to be there. I couldn't imagine what the rest (the missing bits) looked like, neither did I know how it should've looked like. I also visited the Pantheon. The area surrounding it was nice - good gelato at Cremeria Monteforte, also Tazzo d'Oro nearby (well known for their coffee). It was filled with tourists though. But I must say, their coffee granita con panna is as good as advertised, especially on a hot day. I also stumbed across the Cafe Sant Eustacchio, which had mostly Italian customers. They advertised a blurb written about them in the NY Times as well. I later found out that their espressos and coffees are considered one of the best in Rome by the Italians. Cool that I found this place - I wouldn't have learned about them in a guide book. Their coffee was indeed very good. In Italy, I've tried a large assortment of coffee drinks: cafe (espresso), cafe freddo (iced, sweetened coffee), capuccino freddo (iced capuccino), cafe americano (espresso w hot water, but much better than the americanos from back home), and coffee granita. They also have cafe shakerato (like a cafe frappe) and a espresso con panna which look really good but i haven't had a chance to try yet. As long as you order them and drink them at the counter (not seated), the prices are still cheaper than prices back home (compared to Starbucks or something). So they're a deal!
Yesterday I visited the Vatican. The lines to get in were very long (1.5 hrs to get in, past security). The Vatican was very impressive and has a great collection of art. Reminds you that back in the day, the church was very rich and powerful. The Sistine Chapel was impressive, as was St. Peter's basilica. I had to rush to the Borghese Gallery for my 5pm reservation. They limit visitors to about 350 per two hours and you have to make reservations in advance. The art was beautiful - Bernini sculptures were stunning. The pieces of art collected there are some of the greatest and the gallery rooms were designed to display and house these pieces to advantage. The building and galleries were stunning in and of themselves. I bought the audioguide which was so worth it because they did a beautiful job explaining the artists', how the piece was acquired in the collection, the significance and meaning of the piece, etc. Most audioguides are worthless but it was very well done at the Borghese Gallery. It is my favorite of all the museums I've visited, even the Louvre. Since it's limited to so few people, you can really walk around and enjoy the art upclose, withoutthe annoyance of large noisy crowds. I was very sad that the museum store was closed after my tour. I really liked the art there and wanted to purchase some books or postcards of the gallery. This is rare as I'm not usually so into getting the touristy museum stuff. I actually returned today and got two books about the art and the gallery.
This morning I had to check out of the Beehive (hostel last night) and into another hostel. The Beehive is run by an American couple and it's a really nice place to stay. They mostly have apartments and only one or two dorm rooms so you have to book months in advance. That is why I only manged to book one night there. It's very clean and cater mostly to couples and families (they mostly have apartments). They have free internet and their own cafe downstairs, as well as some outdoor seating and comfy couches for lounging. It's also super close to the Termini train station. Unfortunately, the place I'm at tonight isn't nearly as nice. It's also close to the Termini station but on the other side (Via Giolitti) and the area is a little sketchy. Oh well, just one night and tomorrow morning, I've got to hop on my 6:40am shuttle to the Ciampino airport to Brussels. Can't wait to see my friends A and T tomorrow!
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Sunday, July 01, 2007
a few things
a few things I learned so far during my trip...
- good coffee or food isn't a given everywhere, even in Europe.
- beverages bought from a supermarker or grocery store (about 0.50 euro or less) are cheaper than those from a cafe (about 1.50 euro).
E pointed this out and this was very good to know. at first i didn't understand why but given the European penchance for lingering in cafes, i then realized this was a way for the owners to recover some overhead. you also pay much less for a drink consumed at the counter than seated.
- good coffee or food isn't a given everywhere, even in Europe.
- beverages bought from a supermarker or grocery store (about 0.50 euro or less) are cheaper than those from a cafe (about 1.50 euro).
E pointed this out and this was very good to know. at first i didn't understand why but given the European penchance for lingering in cafes, i then realized this was a way for the owners to recover some overhead. you also pay much less for a drink consumed at the counter than seated.
- things are cheaper in Portugal, as compared to Paris and Italy. so far, Paris has been the most expensive.
espresso in Portugal (0.50 euro) compared to espresso in Paris (1.20 euro) or Italy (0.80).
- coffee i'm used to consuming in the US has a higher caffeine content than the espressos served here. it's counter-intuitive but true. espresso may have a higher caffeine concentration but overall caffeine is more in say, a Peet's or Starbuck's coffee.
- when Italians pick up the phone, they answer "Pronto". meaning: ready (talk to me).
- when you're a female walking alone at night, you're likely to be greeted by overly-friendly Italian men. (A - you were right).
- in Italy, they ask you for your passport everywhere. and they xerox it. even to use the internet cafe, they ask to see it. Italian police presence is very noticeable as well.
- only tourists order cappuccino after breakfast. Europeans don't drink cappuccino after breakfast.
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Florence
Florence is a great town to be strolling around at night. Many people are out and about, cafes and restaurants and gelaterias are open, and the narrow streets without cars makes walking around a very pleasant experience. All the areas in and adjacent to the many Piazzas are bustling. The narrow streets also provide a lot of shade against the heat of the sun. Florence is a rather small city and everything is a very accessible distance. But maybe because of the heat, some inertia has kicked in and I haven't felt inclined to cover all the sights yet. Mainly because I know I will have plenty of time to do just that.
Last night I had dinner at the Trattoria Buzzino near the St. Croce chuch. The pasta I had was simple but very good. I ended up chatting with the waiter (his family owns the restaurant) and it turns out he had visited Boston almost 20 years ago as a teenager. As I was walking around, I noticed a crowd gathering outside of the Uffizi gallery. There was a free concert at the Piazza della Signoria and so I found a seat on the floor and joined the crowd. I hadn't been to an orchestra concert in a while - this was even better because it was outdoors.
My hostel yesterday (Hotel Sampaoli) was very good. It's about a 15 min walk from the train station. The guy working there was very friendly and the accomodations wery comfortable and clean. Each room was equipped with a sink and even a hair dryer. I was sharing a room with two other women - one who was visiting from Australia, another from Colorado. This morning I went check in to my other hostel (International Student House), which is also clean but not as nice as the one from yesterday. At least it's super close to the train station, which will be good for when I leave for Rome.
I visited the Uffizi Gallery (best collection of Italian greats) and the Accademia (houses Michaelango's David) today. Thankfully I had called ahead and booked reservations because the line for people without reservations would've been at least two hours. With a reservation, you wait in line to pick up your tickets, then you're in within half an hour. At the Uffizi they limit total people to 600 at a time. I did a brief tour of each gallery but once again, I couldn't really fully appreciate the art. So many of them are religious art - what do I know about that? There seem to be so many variations of the same theme. Jesus on the cross, the Virgin Mary, etc. A will be quite upset that I didn't give the great art it's due. She would probably take all day visiting both... =)
I think I will go later to St Croce church to see the tombs of Galileo and Michaelango.
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Saturday, June 30, 2007
Venezia and Firenze
Arrived in Florence from Padova today. Train ride was only 2 hrs and it was very comfortable as I took the Eurostar train. From Milan to Venice, I was on the IC train, which was a very UNcomfortable 3 hr trip. When my friend M mentioned how much she liked traveling on the trains in Europe, I couldn't imagine why. My only experience up til then was with Amtrak - which I wouldn't consider enjoyable. Only after the Eurostar train today did I understand what she meant.
After my fiasco in Milan I arrived in Venice, albeit two hours later than planned. I had tried to leave P a message on his cell when I realized I was taking the next train but apparently he didn't get my message. Maybe I misdialed? All I knew was that some voice spoke something in Italian which I thought was asking if to confirm the number I dialed but it may have told me the call couldn't go through as dialed. But it was very wonderful to see P and F meet me at the train station. I hadn't seen P in about a year and a half but it was as if it was only yesterday that he was still in Boston. (Luckily he was home in Italy around the same time I was visiting, so we had the chance to meet up). P is my Italian friend who is not really Italian (or so I tease him). He defies all stereotypes of Italians - an Italian who is tall, calm and doesn't like garlic?!
P's gf F went to school near Venice so she was our tour guide and guided us through the maze of bridges and buildings and masses of tourists. I do believe there were more foreign languages spoken in Venice than Italian. The main tourist attractions in Venice weren't very attractive simply because the hordes of people didn't make it a pleasant experience. However, the buildings and monuments (Palazzo Ducale, etc.) were still impressive in their faded glory. We walked into a museum of violins where it was quiet and Vivaldi was playing - and I suddenly had a sense of what it must have felt like to be Venetian in Venice's days of glory. In the future when I hear Vivaldi, I will probably recall walking along the canals of Venice...
Afterwards, we strolled to the outer perimeter of Venice where few tourists were and it was an oasis of calm. Only then did I truly appreciate Venice beauty and charm. That was the beauty of traveling with a local! I probably wouldn't have found those places as a tourist. In the evening, we had authentic Italian pizza which was very delicious. P used to rave about the Italian pizzas back in Boston, so I finally got a chance to try it. later in the evening, I got a chance to try P's mom's desserts which were amazing and very beautiful. i also got to try her homemade limoncello, for which i had the recipe. P mentioned to his mom that i was the Boston friend who had requested the recipe a couple years back. don't worry - i also requested the famous tiramisu and apricot tart recipe this time too! =)
it was really wonderful seeing P again and i hope i will have the chance to either visit him in the future or see him when he visits the Stati Uniti again.
It's finally starting to feel like summer. All of last week, I was half freezing. Temps were high of low 70s or high 60s, and it was quite windy as well. While in Lisbon, I wore a skirt while waiting for my pants to dry (which is a BAD idea when you're in a windy city). it's now mid 80s in Florence and it may be even warmer when i get to Rome in a couple days. Only drawback is I'm starting to collect another souvenir - mosquito bites. =(
After my fiasco in Milan I arrived in Venice, albeit two hours later than planned. I had tried to leave P a message on his cell when I realized I was taking the next train but apparently he didn't get my message. Maybe I misdialed? All I knew was that some voice spoke something in Italian which I thought was asking if to confirm the number I dialed but it may have told me the call couldn't go through as dialed. But it was very wonderful to see P and F meet me at the train station. I hadn't seen P in about a year and a half but it was as if it was only yesterday that he was still in Boston. (Luckily he was home in Italy around the same time I was visiting, so we had the chance to meet up). P is my Italian friend who is not really Italian (or so I tease him). He defies all stereotypes of Italians - an Italian who is tall, calm and doesn't like garlic?!
P's gf F went to school near Venice so she was our tour guide and guided us through the maze of bridges and buildings and masses of tourists. I do believe there were more foreign languages spoken in Venice than Italian. The main tourist attractions in Venice weren't very attractive simply because the hordes of people didn't make it a pleasant experience. However, the buildings and monuments (Palazzo Ducale, etc.) were still impressive in their faded glory. We walked into a museum of violins where it was quiet and Vivaldi was playing - and I suddenly had a sense of what it must have felt like to be Venetian in Venice's days of glory. In the future when I hear Vivaldi, I will probably recall walking along the canals of Venice...
Afterwards, we strolled to the outer perimeter of Venice where few tourists were and it was an oasis of calm. Only then did I truly appreciate Venice beauty and charm. That was the beauty of traveling with a local! I probably wouldn't have found those places as a tourist. In the evening, we had authentic Italian pizza which was very delicious. P used to rave about the Italian pizzas back in Boston, so I finally got a chance to try it. later in the evening, I got a chance to try P's mom's desserts which were amazing and very beautiful. i also got to try her homemade limoncello, for which i had the recipe. P mentioned to his mom that i was the Boston friend who had requested the recipe a couple years back. don't worry - i also requested the famous tiramisu and apricot tart recipe this time too! =)
it was really wonderful seeing P again and i hope i will have the chance to either visit him in the future or see him when he visits the Stati Uniti again.
It's finally starting to feel like summer. All of last week, I was half freezing. Temps were high of low 70s or high 60s, and it was quite windy as well. While in Lisbon, I wore a skirt while waiting for my pants to dry (which is a BAD idea when you're in a windy city). it's now mid 80s in Florence and it may be even warmer when i get to Rome in a couple days. Only drawback is I'm starting to collect another souvenir - mosquito bites. =(
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Friday, June 29, 2007
Portugal
At the beginning of my trip in Paris, I tried to cram in so much that I was exhausted. Also, the last night I spend in Paris at the Aloha Hostel, which was terrible. The place itself was so so and not super conveniently located. The worst thing was that the people there were so noisy! The music was blasting at the downstairs "bar" and people were running around, banging doors and talking loudly up til the wee hours (i stopped bothering to check the time after 3am). Unfortunately, all the loud obnoxious people I heard were American. No wonder why we have a bad reputation abroad, especially among the other young European travellers! At least my 3 other roommates were very nice.
My last day in Paris I went to the Pompidou Center and the Les Halles area. I wasn't so taken in by the area since I've visited more interesting, charming areas earlier. I don't understand much about art, particularly modern art, so the Pompidou was more of a must do touristy thing than something I really wanted to see. I returned to Notre Dame and toured the inside of the church. I have a feeling that 'll be visiting more churches these weeks of this Europe trip than I will or ever have throughout my lifetime.
Once I got to Portugal, it was very relaxing. I arrived in Porto, where I met up w my friend E. After having to figure out my itinerary and plan how to get from A to B in Paris, it was so relaxing to not have to worry about any of that. I had a tour guide, translator and chauffeur! Makes a huge difference when you're visiting friends vs. travelling on your own. Porto was very charming, esp. the Douro wine area. I did a tour of theFerreira house and sampled some port. The tour wasn't terribly informative but I did learn that there is a white port (aperitif) in addition to the tawnies and rubies (digestif).
ok, i'll have to continue about Portugal later as I've got a train to catch.
6/30/07
Rewind to Portugal...
I'm so glad I was w E the first day or so because when I was in Lisbon I was able to understand some words based on listening to his conversations. Whereas in France I could get by w my French, in Porto E was there, in Lisbon it was more difficult. I should've gotten Portugese, Italian and German phrase books before I left for my trip. Just knowing the basics would've really helped. Damn.
the train ride to Lisbon was long and boring. made me wish A could've come on this trip with me. too bad timing didn't work out for her. traveling is fun but it's so much better with friends. it sometimes gets lonely when you're traveling by yourself - esp. during train rides or flights. i've spent a small fortune on english language magazines to pass the time already... another advantage of traveling with friends is that you can wander off to places late at night and not worry as much. another thing is that you can try nicer restaurants or share dishes you wouldn't order on your own. so glad i'm meeting up with friends throughout different legs of my trip!!!
Lisbon reminds me a lot of San Fran. It's a rather hilly city and they also have cable cars! They even have a bridge that looks almost exactly like ours (I don't know what it's called). Some of the streets are really narrow. When you're riding the cable car, you can see buildings on either side of the street practically a foot away from either side of the car. It's a little scary, actually. When you're high up in the hills, you can look across and see the coastline below. They have some nice beaches there, which unfortunately I didn't have a chance to visit. I actually did pack a swimsuit but I doubt I'll actually get to use it.
I went to Belem, where the Jeronimos monastery was located. It is a beautiful building, all white with elaborate carvings throughout. The Portugese explorer Vasco da Gama's tomb is there. I visited the cafe where the famous Pasteis de Belem is sold too! That was one of the food places I was really looking forward to visiting. And yes, their pasteis de nata is the best I've had (not that I'm an expert or anything). On the subject of food, I also tried a Francezinha for dinner while in Lisbon. It's a Porto speciality I think but we didn't have enough time to try it in Porto. Since E mentioned it, I figured it was worth trying and my curiosity promped me to order it. It's like a sandwich, which looks like a lasagna when it's served and to me, tastes almost like a pizza. The sandwich part is chorizo and steak between grilled pieces of bread. The whole thing is covered with a layer of cheese and topped with a tomato based sauce. It was similar to what I had tried at E's place which was a sandwich of steak between pieces of fried bread, topped with a fried egg and some sauce (made of butter, port and worcestershire sauce). And E's family were amused when they heard about him attempting to cook. He claims he does from time to time...I have only witnessed it once. =)
It's too bad I didn't have time to visit Sintra, a world heritage site. Hopefully I will be able to do so in the future, when I visit M in Portugal when she's back.
My last day in Paris I went to the Pompidou Center and the Les Halles area. I wasn't so taken in by the area since I've visited more interesting, charming areas earlier. I don't understand much about art, particularly modern art, so the Pompidou was more of a must do touristy thing than something I really wanted to see. I returned to Notre Dame and toured the inside of the church. I have a feeling that 'll be visiting more churches these weeks of this Europe trip than I will or ever have throughout my lifetime.
Once I got to Portugal, it was very relaxing. I arrived in Porto, where I met up w my friend E. After having to figure out my itinerary and plan how to get from A to B in Paris, it was so relaxing to not have to worry about any of that. I had a tour guide, translator and chauffeur! Makes a huge difference when you're visiting friends vs. travelling on your own. Porto was very charming, esp. the Douro wine area. I did a tour of theFerreira house and sampled some port. The tour wasn't terribly informative but I did learn that there is a white port (aperitif) in addition to the tawnies and rubies (digestif).
ok, i'll have to continue about Portugal later as I've got a train to catch.
6/30/07
Rewind to Portugal...
I'm so glad I was w E the first day or so because when I was in Lisbon I was able to understand some words based on listening to his conversations. Whereas in France I could get by w my French, in Porto E was there, in Lisbon it was more difficult. I should've gotten Portugese, Italian and German phrase books before I left for my trip. Just knowing the basics would've really helped. Damn.
the train ride to Lisbon was long and boring. made me wish A could've come on this trip with me. too bad timing didn't work out for her. traveling is fun but it's so much better with friends. it sometimes gets lonely when you're traveling by yourself - esp. during train rides or flights. i've spent a small fortune on english language magazines to pass the time already... another advantage of traveling with friends is that you can wander off to places late at night and not worry as much. another thing is that you can try nicer restaurants or share dishes you wouldn't order on your own. so glad i'm meeting up with friends throughout different legs of my trip!!!
Lisbon reminds me a lot of San Fran. It's a rather hilly city and they also have cable cars! They even have a bridge that looks almost exactly like ours (I don't know what it's called). Some of the streets are really narrow. When you're riding the cable car, you can see buildings on either side of the street practically a foot away from either side of the car. It's a little scary, actually. When you're high up in the hills, you can look across and see the coastline below. They have some nice beaches there, which unfortunately I didn't have a chance to visit. I actually did pack a swimsuit but I doubt I'll actually get to use it.
I went to Belem, where the Jeronimos monastery was located. It is a beautiful building, all white with elaborate carvings throughout. The Portugese explorer Vasco da Gama's tomb is there. I visited the cafe where the famous Pasteis de Belem is sold too! That was one of the food places I was really looking forward to visiting. And yes, their pasteis de nata is the best I've had (not that I'm an expert or anything). On the subject of food, I also tried a Francezinha for dinner while in Lisbon. It's a Porto speciality I think but we didn't have enough time to try it in Porto. Since E mentioned it, I figured it was worth trying and my curiosity promped me to order it. It's like a sandwich, which looks like a lasagna when it's served and to me, tastes almost like a pizza. The sandwich part is chorizo and steak between grilled pieces of bread. The whole thing is covered with a layer of cheese and topped with a tomato based sauce. It was similar to what I had tried at E's place which was a sandwich of steak between pieces of fried bread, topped with a fried egg and some sauce (made of butter, port and worcestershire sauce). And E's family were amused when they heard about him attempting to cook. He claims he does from time to time...I have only witnessed it once. =)
It's too bad I didn't have time to visit Sintra, a world heritage site. Hopefully I will be able to do so in the future, when I visit M in Portugal when she's back.
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Milan
Italy has been frustrating so far. I flew in from Lisbon last night and arrived around 11:30pm. the hotel i booked was nearby but the hotel shuttle wasn't running anymore at that time. since it was late and my options were limited, i decided to take a cab. for literally a 5 minute cab ride, i was charged 20 euros! i couldn't believe it and i told the cab driver to wait while i went inside the hotel to ask if the price was reasonable. apparently, unfortunately, it was correct. in Milan at the airport, the drivers can sometimes wait hours for a customer and the minimum fare is 20 euros. what the hell? the shuttle, had it been operating, would've been 3. =( also, the hotel i booked was the priciest place i'll be staying at throughout the trip, essentially because it was close to the airport and i was arriving so late in Milan. in addition, the front desk requested that i show my passport, which they KEEP until the next morning. after being ripped off for the cab ride and then having them ask for my passport, i was appalled. if the receptionist didn't show me the other passports he had, i think i would've walked outta there. that is because of security purposes and some new law i'm told.
furthermore, the smell of cigarettes was so strong in the room i could't really sleep. it's hard to sleep when you can't breathe clean air!!! to add insult to injury, i wake up early to catch the 7:30 hotel shuttle to the airport so i can get to the Milan central train station to catch my 9:05am train to Venice. but the train from the airport (took 50 minutes!) doesn't go directly to central station so i need to transfer to the metro afterwards. (i opted out of the bus from the airport directly to the central station because i was warned that would take longer because of the morning commute). so i finally get to the train station, buy my ticket, only to MISS the damn train by two minutes! ugh. the next one is two hours later - so i wandered outside and found this internet cafe.
i'm spending so much $ and wasting time for a detour from Milan to Venice. had i known earlier, i would've paid more to fly straight to Venice. =( hopefully, this info is of use to someone who travels to Milan in the future.
ok, enough venting. i just hope the rest of Italy makes the unfortuitous beginning worthwhile...
furthermore, the smell of cigarettes was so strong in the room i could't really sleep. it's hard to sleep when you can't breathe clean air!!! to add insult to injury, i wake up early to catch the 7:30 hotel shuttle to the airport so i can get to the Milan central train station to catch my 9:05am train to Venice. but the train from the airport (took 50 minutes!) doesn't go directly to central station so i need to transfer to the metro afterwards. (i opted out of the bus from the airport directly to the central station because i was warned that would take longer because of the morning commute). so i finally get to the train station, buy my ticket, only to MISS the damn train by two minutes! ugh. the next one is two hours later - so i wandered outside and found this internet cafe.
i'm spending so much $ and wasting time for a detour from Milan to Venice. had i known earlier, i would've paid more to fly straight to Venice. =( hopefully, this info is of use to someone who travels to Milan in the future.
ok, enough venting. i just hope the rest of Italy makes the unfortuitous beginning worthwhile...
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Sunday, June 24, 2007
Versailles and more
yesterday morning, i visited notre dame. there was a procession going on and i asked a reporter there (in french!) what was going on. he told me that they were ordaining a new priest that day. the whole ceremony inside the church was also being broadcast live on a large screen projection outdoors.
ile st louis was very quiet and charming. you're hard pressed to not find a charming area in this city. if you think about all the charming areas you enjoy visiting anywhere and concentrate all those characteristics into one city, you've got paris. at least that's my impression. the whole foodie cafe bistro culture was established here ages ago. i'm a fan.
i continued to the latin quarter and rue de mouffetard area in the morning. (rue de mouffetard is someplace i wouldn't mind spending more time wandering around it. very cute.) i went to the louvre and i know i didn't give the louvre it's due as i only visited the denon gallery but i visited the must sees and that was good enough for me. i wanted to enjoy the nice weather (it had been chilly and somewhat rainy the day before) and just wander around the neighborhoods and absorb the ambiance and experience the city rather than being in museums all day...
from the louvre, i walked through the lovely jardin des tuileries to the musee d'orangerie. then i was off to rue de faubourg - the ritzy shopping area. lots of $$$ shopping and places so exclusive you have to be buzzed in (jewelry shops). cartier, longchamps tiffany, chanel, armani, etc. needless to say, i window shopped.
ile st louis was very quiet and charming. you're hard pressed to not find a charming area in this city. if you think about all the charming areas you enjoy visiting anywhere and concentrate all those characteristics into one city, you've got paris. at least that's my impression. the whole foodie cafe bistro culture was established here ages ago. i'm a fan.
i continued to the latin quarter and rue de mouffetard area in the morning. (rue de mouffetard is someplace i wouldn't mind spending more time wandering around it. very cute.) i went to the louvre and i know i didn't give the louvre it's due as i only visited the denon gallery but i visited the must sees and that was good enough for me. i wanted to enjoy the nice weather (it had been chilly and somewhat rainy the day before) and just wander around the neighborhoods and absorb the ambiance and experience the city rather than being in museums all day...
from the louvre, i walked through the lovely jardin des tuileries to the musee d'orangerie. then i was off to rue de faubourg - the ritzy shopping area. lots of $$$ shopping and places so exclusive you have to be buzzed in (jewelry shops). cartier, longchamps tiffany, chanel, armani, etc. needless to say, i window shopped.
later in the evening, i went to Montmartre and Sacre Coeur - sat on the church steps to admire the view of paris. the place du tertre area was bustling and the cafes and restaurants were candlelit and packed with customers.
i took the train to Versailles this afternoon. the grounds are vast and the palace is well - palatial. it makes the Vanderbilts who owned the Breakers mansion look like paupers. the grounds are well manicured and there are lovely fountains and even a manmade canal. it was very beautiful and impressive but somehow i found it a little disappointing. i don't know - i expected it to be larger, more grand, etc. that's the problem about visiting places you've heard so much about - you tend to render them so impossibly grand in your imagination that the real thing seems unimpressive in comparison. ok, it's a lesson in managing expectations...
afterwards i went to the Arc de Triomphe and climbed the stairs to the top. i'm used to walking nowadays but i was still a bit winded when i reached the top. the view was nice and i'm sure it's even better if you go in the evening to admire the nightlights. i walked along rue de Champs Elysees - more expensive shopping here. i stopped by Laduree and bought some macaroons (this was a must-do for me) and was slightly shocked at how expensive they were. i followed rue champs elysees toward place de la concorde and near rue tronchet (madeline metro stop) i saw Laduree, fauchon and hediard all located within a few blocks of each other. Cool! only unfortunate thing is that these shops were closed as it was a sunday evening. i need to revisit during open hours.
Tonight I'm staying at the Aloha hostel. i'm in a room with three other girls from Belgium. They're just visiting Paris for the weekend since it's only a 2-3 hr drive from where they are. imagine being able to go to Paris for the weekend...i'm very jealous. They recommended that i visit brusges and ghent, which i think i will be visiting in a little more than a week. i'm leaving my belgium itinerary with A and T's capable hands. i'm not sure if i'll like it here at the hostel - they're blasting music on the main floor now where i'm clacking away at the keyboard. um, i really hope i won't hear it when i'm sleeping. the cool thing is that they are located within walking distance of a pierre herme and close to several bakeries. but i'm not so sure if it's that centrally located. at least it's closer to the orly airport train line, where i need to head tomorrow early afternoon.
i hope to see the pompidou center and les invalides before i head out to portugal tomorrow.
so far, the french have been very kind. maybe it's because i've been trying to practice my rusty high school french...though a few times i think they take pity on me (or want to stop my mangled french) and start talking to me in english. i did notice this morning that if i speak in english (before my caffeine, it's more difficult to converse in a foreign language!) the service i received wasn't as good as when i spoke French. i know that they have a lot to be proud of (historically, culturally, PARIS alone is enough to give them something to be proud of) but still...
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Saturday, June 23, 2007
in Paris
cool, i finally stumbled upon an internet cafe so i can post and catch up on email.
i arrived yesterday afternoon and found my hotel with no problem. the hotel is pretty spartan and everything is quite old but it's not that bad. the location is convenient, just a few minutes walk from the Metro and quite close to the Gare du Nord. it costs a bit more than a hostel but all the hostels i tried to reserve were filled. for 10 more euros, at least i have my own room and sink. the shower and toilets are shared but are decent.
one of the best things about Paris is that cafes and patisseries are EVERYHWERE. i'm in heaven. people really seem to enjoy lounging around and people watching. i think in the US i'm more used to seeing people in a hurry and on the run. i haven't lounged around in the cafes yet since i'm mostly grabbing un express and un pain au chocolat a porter in the morning. this saves me some time to get to my sightseeing destination. i figure i'll enjoy the cafes later in the afternoon when my energy wanes or my legs get tired. there's a LOT of walking.
i went to see the Tour Eiffel last night and it was very beautiful all lit up against the night sky. i went to the second level to see the view from there but it was quite chilly and rainy. i kind of felt like it was one of those must do things but it wasn't all that. i walked along the Rue St. Dominique and Rue St. Cler as well.
this morning i went to Notre Dame and there was a ceremony going on - a new priest was being ordained. there was a procession of priests and music. i guess it's sort of like mass only it's not Sunday and the ceremony was broadcast on a big screen outside as well. i visited Ile St.Louis which was very quaint. there were many restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops, boulangerie/patisseries. actually, the area around Notre Dame pretty much has all that.
i think Ste. Chapelle and the Louvre is next. perhaps i'll also do a night tour tonight as well. i've got two more days in Paris before I head over to Porto.
i arrived yesterday afternoon and found my hotel with no problem. the hotel is pretty spartan and everything is quite old but it's not that bad. the location is convenient, just a few minutes walk from the Metro and quite close to the Gare du Nord. it costs a bit more than a hostel but all the hostels i tried to reserve were filled. for 10 more euros, at least i have my own room and sink. the shower and toilets are shared but are decent.
one of the best things about Paris is that cafes and patisseries are EVERYHWERE. i'm in heaven. people really seem to enjoy lounging around and people watching. i think in the US i'm more used to seeing people in a hurry and on the run. i haven't lounged around in the cafes yet since i'm mostly grabbing un express and un pain au chocolat a porter in the morning. this saves me some time to get to my sightseeing destination. i figure i'll enjoy the cafes later in the afternoon when my energy wanes or my legs get tired. there's a LOT of walking.
i went to see the Tour Eiffel last night and it was very beautiful all lit up against the night sky. i went to the second level to see the view from there but it was quite chilly and rainy. i kind of felt like it was one of those must do things but it wasn't all that. i walked along the Rue St. Dominique and Rue St. Cler as well.
this morning i went to Notre Dame and there was a ceremony going on - a new priest was being ordained. there was a procession of priests and music. i guess it's sort of like mass only it's not Sunday and the ceremony was broadcast on a big screen outside as well. i visited Ile St.Louis which was very quaint. there were many restaurants, cafes, gourmet shops, boulangerie/patisseries. actually, the area around Notre Dame pretty much has all that.
i think Ste. Chapelle and the Louvre is next. perhaps i'll also do a night tour tonight as well. i've got two more days in Paris before I head over to Porto.
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Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Paris
I leave for Paris tomorrow evening. On Friday, I will be in Paris! =) I think I've wanted to go visit Paris since forever (ok, well since at least high school). Have you ever felt an affinity toward a place? Some inexplicable pull or influence on your imagination? It's something like that for me.
My french would've been so much better had I gone after AP French with Madame Puretz. I've forgotten so much but I think I'll manage to get by.
Plus de chocolat, s'il vous plait!
My french would've been so much better had I gone after AP French with Madame Puretz. I've forgotten so much but I think I'll manage to get by.
Plus de chocolat, s'il vous plait!
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Monday, June 04, 2007
I Quit To Bake Cupcakes
apparently, i'm not the only one who thinks about baking for a living. only thing is, i don't like to wake up super-early so i don't know if this bakery business would work out for me.
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/03/fashion/03cupcake.html
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/03/fashion/03cupcake.html
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Thursday, May 31, 2007
Europe
i'll be going to Europe in a few weeks so i will definitely have a lot to post when i get back. several places i want to check out:
Paris
Berthillon
Pierre Herme
Laduree
Marriage-Freres
Italy
anywhere that has gelato and variations of espresso. i'm afraid that'll be my sustenance in Italy.
Portugal
Pasteis de Nata
Belgium
all the chocolate shops that my friend A has promised to drag me to. i'm looking forward to spending time with her - she gets as excited about food as i do. =)
Paris
Berthillon
Pierre Herme
Laduree
Marriage-Freres
Italy
anywhere that has gelato and variations of espresso. i'm afraid that'll be my sustenance in Italy.
Portugal
Pasteis de Nata
Belgium
all the chocolate shops that my friend A has promised to drag me to. i'm looking forward to spending time with her - she gets as excited about food as i do. =)
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Friday, May 04, 2007
Friday, March 16, 2007
Recipe: Singapore Rice Noodles
my friend A recently emailed me asking for this recipe. i found it online and it was one of the first recipes i attempted upon starting grad school. back in undergrad, i only liked to bake. cooking would be randomly throwing food together. needless to say, it often didn't taste so great. at the time, my repertoire of seasonings simply consisted of soy sauce, salt and pepper. then starting grad school, i meet my roommate A who is an amazing cook. her enthusiasm was infectious and i caught the cooking bug. so this recipe brings back memories - of being back in AA, of early years of grad school, of the tie when cooking just started to seem less daunting.
Singapore Rice Noodles (Sing Zul chow Mai Fun)
From The Wisdom of the Chinese Recipe. Published by Scribner, 1999
From The Wisdom of the Chinese Recipe. Published by Scribner, 1999
In Singapore, it is common to catch the intoxicating aroma of curry in the air. Almost every restaurant serves mai fun - rice vermicelli or rice sticks - stir-fried with curry powder, baby shrimp, scallions, celery, and Chinese mushrooms, for this is one of Singapore's most famous dishes. The trick in preparing the dried noodles is to soak them in cold water until they soften before cooking them. When first placed in cold water they are hard and brittle but after twenty to thirty minutes they will feel as soft as if they've been cooked. Drain the noodles well before stir-frying.
- 4 Chinese dried mushrooms
- 8 ounces rice vermicelli (mai fun)
- 2 tablespoons Shao Hsing rice cooking wine
- 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 4 ounces small shrimp, shelled and deveined
- 1/2 cup finely shredded scallions
- 1 cup thinly sliced celery
- 2 teaspoons Madras curry powder
- 3/4 cup Homemade Chicken Broth
- 4 ounces Chinese Barbecued Pork, store-bought or homemade, cut into julienne
In a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in 1/4 cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain and squeeze dry, reserving soaking liquid. Cut off and discard stems and thinly slice the caps.
In a large bowl, soak the rice noodles in enough cold water to cover to 20 to 30 minutes, or until noodles are limp and softened. Drain in a colander and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, and salt. Set aside.
Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and the shrimp, and stir-fry 10 seconds. Add the scallions and stir-fry 30 seconds, or until shrimp have just turned orange but are not cooked through. Transfer the shrimp mixture to a plate and set aside.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoon vegetable oil, celery, and sliced mushrooms, and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add the curry powder and stir-fry 10 seconds, or until fragrant. Restir soy sauce mixture and swirl it into the wok. Add the chicken broth, reserved mushroom soaking liquid, and 1/3 cup cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Add the drained rice noodles and return to a boil, stirring noodles to completely coat in curry mixture. Cover and cook over medium-high heat 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until noodles are just tender. Add the shrimp and barbecued pork, and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes, or until shrimp are just cooked through and liquid has been absorbed by the noodles. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal.
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Monday, February 05, 2007
Gourmet Milk Chocolate Test Ratings
Testing for Perfection: Milk Chocolate
We tasted milk chocolate straight, then in a dessert sauce, and showcased the winners in our February 2007 issue (Testing for Perfection: "Milk Chocolate Lab"). Here is the full list of chocolates included in the testing, in order of our preference, with tasting notes:
1. Bernard Castelain: Creamy, good balance; smooth and delicious. Said one dark-chocolate lover: "I've had three pieces, and that's huge!"
2. Lindt Excellence: Luscious in the mouth; vanilla and caramel finish.
3. Green & Black Organic: Good mouthfeel; slightly bitter (those who don't like dark chocolate might not like this one).
4. Valrhona Nature & Chocolat: Smooth; fruity and floral notes.
5. E. Guittard Orinoco: More than a slight hint of coconut.
6. Jacques Callebaut: Lots of cocoa, a little less milk.
7. Galler: Intense milky taste, still in a nice balance. Creamy and clean.
8. Côte d'Or: Hints of peanut, anise detected. Smooth.
9. Villars Swiss: Intensely sweet and salty.
10. Nirvana Single Origin Java: Very light, gentle chocolate.
11. Chocolatour Java: Sweet and inoffensive.
12. Michel Cluizel "Mangaro": On the bitter side for milk, but nice three-dimensional flavors.
13. Chocolove: Buttery up front; complete cocoa flavor.
14. Pralus Mélissa: Very sweet, chocolatey; not so much character.
15. Scharffen Berger: Complex; lots of cocoa, a little tannic.
16. Nirvana Single Origin Papua: Slight malt flavor.
17. Santander: Notes of cherry. A tad spicy.
18. Cadbury: A bland sweetness; slightly waxy.
19. Dagoba: Very faint cedar flavor and some mustiness.
20. Venchi: At first it tastes of nothing; finishes with a wash of condensed milk.
21. Dolfin: Nice melting but tastes off.
22. Hershey's: Even a blind test couldn't fool us: Every tester guessed its identity correctly from its classic supersweet, metallic flavors.
23. Michel Cluizel "Maralumi": Dry, unpleasant, tinny.
24. Nestlé: Like solid condensed milk.
25. Ghirardelli: The worst by far: waxy as a bar of soap, with little redeeming flavor.
1. Bernard Castelain: Creamy, good balance; smooth and delicious. Said one dark-chocolate lover: "I've had three pieces, and that's huge!"
2. Lindt Excellence: Luscious in the mouth; vanilla and caramel finish.
3. Green & Black Organic: Good mouthfeel; slightly bitter (those who don't like dark chocolate might not like this one).
4. Valrhona Nature & Chocolat: Smooth; fruity and floral notes.
5. E. Guittard Orinoco: More than a slight hint of coconut.
6. Jacques Callebaut: Lots of cocoa, a little less milk.
7. Galler: Intense milky taste, still in a nice balance. Creamy and clean.
8. Côte d'Or: Hints of peanut, anise detected. Smooth.
9. Villars Swiss: Intensely sweet and salty.
10. Nirvana Single Origin Java: Very light, gentle chocolate.
11. Chocolatour Java: Sweet and inoffensive.
12. Michel Cluizel "Mangaro": On the bitter side for milk, but nice three-dimensional flavors.
13. Chocolove: Buttery up front; complete cocoa flavor.
14. Pralus Mélissa: Very sweet, chocolatey; not so much character.
15. Scharffen Berger: Complex; lots of cocoa, a little tannic.
16. Nirvana Single Origin Papua: Slight malt flavor.
17. Santander: Notes of cherry. A tad spicy.
18. Cadbury: A bland sweetness; slightly waxy.
19. Dagoba: Very faint cedar flavor and some mustiness.
20. Venchi: At first it tastes of nothing; finishes with a wash of condensed milk.
21. Dolfin: Nice melting but tastes off.
22. Hershey's: Even a blind test couldn't fool us: Every tester guessed its identity correctly from its classic supersweet, metallic flavors.
23. Michel Cluizel "Maralumi": Dry, unpleasant, tinny.
24. Nestlé: Like solid condensed milk.
25. Ghirardelli: The worst by far: waxy as a bar of soap, with little redeeming flavor.
— Gourmet, February 2007
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Friday, January 26, 2007
Creme brulee
I finally got around to making creme brulee for the first time last weekend. I invited a friend over for an impromptu dinner and since I had eggs and cream, I decided to make creme brulee. Ever since I tried creme brulee at Finale in Harvard Sq. I've looked forward to trying to make it myself one day. I'm happy to say that it turned out quite well - as good as the ones they sell at Finale, if I say so myself. My dinner guest concurred. It's really easy too - which makes me wonder why we shell out so much $ for dessert. But then again, maybe it's better that way. Easy access to sweet fattening desserts isn't such a great idea. If you actually had to work to make it, it's more likely you won't want to go to the trouble and thus not forget about it. Or if you buy it, you only buy one as opposed to making it, having extra and eating it all yourself. Hey, if you're going to go to all that trouble, you're not going to make ONE cookie, pastry, etc. Which is why I like having guests or potlucks - it gives me an opportunity to try out new recipes and share the calories. Not that my guinea pigs seem to mind. =)
Crème Brulee
(serves 5-6)
From Barefoot in
1 extra large egg
4 extra large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
3 cups heavy cream
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier (can be omitted)
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Sunday, January 14, 2007
Best Chocolate in the World?
according to David Lebovitz, the best chocolate in the world may be found in the United States. gasp, not Belgian? not Swiss?
read on:
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/01/chocolatiers_an.html
speaking of chocolatiers, there's an awesome one in Harvard Sq. called L.A. Burdick's. they make the best hot chocolate, great handmade chocolate confections and sell all sorts of European style pastries (Linzertort, Zugerkirsch, macaroons, etc.). it's a tiny, cozy place that's always jam-packed. their coffee (Americano) is really good too.
i purchased some Burdick's chocolate boxes for my extended family as christmas presents last December. i bought one for my cousin who had visited me in Boston a while ago. i introduced him and his gf to Burdick's and he was bowled over by their hot chocolate. so of course i was looking forward to seeing his face when i handed him the chocolate but something went awry.
my mom accidentally moved the box from on top of the fridge to the kitchen table one morning. a few hours later, i returned home to a shredded box with chocolates strewn over the hallway carpet. Homer (our family dog) had decided the chocolate was fair game since it was on the kitchen table (ANY food left on the table is fair game) and he pounced on it.
i was SO peeved! worst thing is that he didn't even eat the chocolate. well, if he had eaten it, he may have gotten sick so i'm glad he didn't. on the other hand, i can't help but feel that it would serve him right if he did get a tad sick. he would finally learn to leave food on the kitchen table alone. sigh.
other chocolatier's that are very well-known:
ScharffenBerger (founded in Berkeley, CA)
Michael Recchiutti (located in SF Ferry Marketplace)
read on:
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/01/chocolatiers_an.html
speaking of chocolatiers, there's an awesome one in Harvard Sq. called L.A. Burdick's. they make the best hot chocolate, great handmade chocolate confections and sell all sorts of European style pastries (Linzertort, Zugerkirsch, macaroons, etc.). it's a tiny, cozy place that's always jam-packed. their coffee (Americano) is really good too.
i purchased some Burdick's chocolate boxes for my extended family as christmas presents last December. i bought one for my cousin who had visited me in Boston a while ago. i introduced him and his gf to Burdick's and he was bowled over by their hot chocolate. so of course i was looking forward to seeing his face when i handed him the chocolate but something went awry.
my mom accidentally moved the box from on top of the fridge to the kitchen table one morning. a few hours later, i returned home to a shredded box with chocolates strewn over the hallway carpet. Homer (our family dog) had decided the chocolate was fair game since it was on the kitchen table (ANY food left on the table is fair game) and he pounced on it.
i was SO peeved! worst thing is that he didn't even eat the chocolate. well, if he had eaten it, he may have gotten sick so i'm glad he didn't. on the other hand, i can't help but feel that it would serve him right if he did get a tad sick. he would finally learn to leave food on the kitchen table alone. sigh.
other chocolatier's that are very well-known:
ScharffenBerger (founded in Berkeley, CA)
Michael Recchiutti (located in SF Ferry Marketplace)
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Friday, January 12, 2007
Heat
the last book i read was "Heat" by Bill Bruford, when i was on the flight home to CA on Christmas Day. the book was a fun, engaging read and thoroughly entertaining while providing a glimpse into the kitchen of upscale restaurant establishments. i always thought that being a chef/cook would be a fun job but it turns out to be a very high stress and competitive environment. i guess what seems to be fun as a hobby most often turns out to be stressful when it's a job...
it was amusing to read about all the cussing that goes on behind the scenes and what a colorful lot chefs are. i remember reading about some cook's blunt description of making bolognese sauce as "cooking the shit out of the f*rs". whoa, can't miss the message there...
a great source for current, popular cookbooks offered at great prices: Jessica's Biscuit
it was amusing to read about all the cussing that goes on behind the scenes and what a colorful lot chefs are. i remember reading about some cook's blunt description of making bolognese sauce as "cooking the shit out of the f*rs". whoa, can't miss the message there...
a great source for current, popular cookbooks offered at great prices: Jessica's Biscuit
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Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Cooking and Science
just read this article in the NYTimes. written by Harold McGee who wrote the well known "On Food and Cooking: the science and lore of the kitchen".
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/06/dining/06curi.html?pagewanted=all
DINING & WINE | December 6, 2006
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/06/dining/06curi.html?pagewanted=all
DINING & WINE | December 6, 2006
The Curious Cook : When Science Sniffs Around the Kitchen
By HAROLD McGEE
Can a rational awareness of flavor chemistry and amine circuitry influence and heighten our actual sensory experience of food?
Labels: food, harold mcgee, science
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