Susan Says

In Singapore, it is common to catch the intoxicating aroma of curry in the air. Almost every restaurant serves mai fun - rice vermicelli or rice sticks - stir-fried with curry powder, baby shrimp, scallions, celery, and Chinese mushrooms, for this is one of Singapore's most famous dishes. The trick in preparing the dried noodles is to soak them in cold water until they soften before cooking them. When first placed in cold water they are hard and brittle but after twenty to thirty minutes they will feel as soft as if they've been cooked. Drain the noodles well before stir-frying.

• 4 Chinese dried mushrooms
• 8 ounces rice vermicelli (mai fun)
• 2 tablespoons Shao Hsing rice cooking wine
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 ounces small shrimp, shelled and deveined
• 1/2 cup finely shredded scallions
• 1 cup thinly sliced celery
• 2 teaspoons Madras curry powder
• 3/4 cup Homemade Chicken Broth
• 4 ounces Chinese Barbecued Pork, store-bought or homemade, cut into julienne

In a medium bowl, soak the mushrooms in 1/4 cup cold water for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain and squeeze dry, reserving soaking liquid. Cut off and discard stems and thinly slice the caps.

In a large bowl, soak the rice noodles in enough cold water to cover to 20 to 30 minutes, or until noodles are limp and softened. Drain in a colander and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, and salt. Set aside.

Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and the shrimp, and stir-fry 10 seconds. Add the scallions and stir-fry 30 seconds, or until shrimp have just turned orange but are not cooked through. Transfer the shrimp mixture to a plate and set aside.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoon vegetable oil, celery, and sliced mushrooms, and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add the curry powder and stir-fry 10 seconds, or until fragrant. Restir soy sauce mixture and swirl it into the wok. Add the chicken broth, reserved mushroom soaking liquid, and 1/3 cup cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add the drained rice noodles and return to a boil, stirring noodles to completely coat in curry mixture. Cover and cook over medium-high heat 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until noodles are just tender. Add the shrimp and barbecued pork, and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes, or until shrimp are just cooked through and liquid has been absorbed by the noodles. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6 as part of a multicourse meal.